Five hundred years ago, when Columbus discovered the New World, this tough and practical rough cloth had already appeared, and it was mainly used to make sails at that time. Because this cloth originated in Nimes, a small town in France, it was named “Serge De Nimes” in French. When this twill serge fabric was first introduced to the UK, it was difficult for British merchants to pronounce the French “Serge De Nimes”, so it was simply called Denim, which means denim, and sometimes it was transliterated into denim.
Denim fabrics called denim, but it has gone far beyond the name of a fabric. Denim clothing and accessories made of denim have grown up with movie stars, the younger generation, and fashion designers, and have never quit fashion. stage. Denim is the oldest fabric because with denim it is forever young and timeless.
Denim is a trend that never lags behind in the fashion industry. No matter how the trend changes, denim can always enter people’s field of vision easily. I believe that everyone has such a pair of denim clothes and jeans in their closet.
At present, the common denim fabrics mainly include: elastic, non-elastic, slub, non-slub, hemp cotton, mercerized, coated and other high-quality fabrics.
It is also divided into ordinary denim, combed denim, polyester-cotton denim, elastic denim, slub denim, ring-spun denim, gold and silver silk color strips, hemp-cotton denim and other series of denim.
How to distinguish different types of denim?
First of all, according to the thickness of denim, it is divided into 4.5oz, 6oz, 8oz, 10oz, 11oz, 12oz, 13.5oz, 14.5oz which will be all acceptable by a jeans custom manufacturer like us.
4.5 oz are very thin, and are often used to make vests and sleeveless shirts for women in summer; 14.5 oz are very thick, and can be used for men’s cotton padded clothes in winter; most of the jeans we often wear are from 8 oz to 12 oz wait.
From the types of denim fabrics, it can be divided into plain, twill, herringbone, interwoven, slub, dark, and flocking denim… In terms of composition, denim can be divided into combed and carded, with 100% cotton , with stretch (Lycra), cotton and linen blends, and Tencel.
How to sew a denim garment, as a professional jeans custom manufacturer, which is also the key to designing denim garments:
Sewing:
Most of them are 2 points of unilateral double exposed thread, there are also 2 points of single exposed thread, and 2 points of bilateral double exposed thread. The color of the car thread is generally khaki (equal to the color line) and there is also a color thread. Note that it is equipped with the color thread after washing. Zigzag line and other special craft lines. Bold hand embroidery thread. Play dates.
Accessories:
Cowboys mostly use I-shaped buttons, four-way buttons, rivets, corns, leather cards, metal zippers, etc.
Labels:
Including main label, size label, washing label, flag label, side label, etc…
In the past two years, some big brands have launched three-dimensional cutting which is a new standard for the jeans custom manufacturer, adding more folds at the knees, or adding an extra surface to better enhance the freedom of movement of jeans… and the cutting of denim suits can reflect the skill of a pattern maker, especially It is made of high elasticity, so it is difficult to make the sleeve mountain smooth, wrinkle-free, and beautiful in shape!
In the past two years, the trend of denim has been different from the past. In addition to paying attention to the changing design of washing, it also attaches great importance to the processing of denim decoration process:
Denim fringe: the bottom of the jeans, the trousers are trimmed to pieces with scissors, and then added with special thread; many big brands do this too…
Adding machine embroidery: including pattern flower design of computer machine embroidery…
Hot diamond: This kind is very popular in the Russian market…
Applique embroidery, hand embroidery, bead embroidery: very crafty design…
Glue printing: But be careful that it will feel hard, and the pattern will easily fall off after washing…
Laser: Burn off all the colors of the cloth, revealing the color of the cloth itself, with a rendering effect.
Denim can also be matched with different fabrics, such as wool, imitation leather, corduroy, thick knit (fleece, sweater fabric), etc.; and there are many styles of denim, including five-pocket jeans and denim shirts , denim jackets, skirts, coats, etc., this is also a place to reflect creativity and talent.
General washing
Ordinary washing, change the washing we are familiar with to mechanization, the water temperature is about 60-90°C, add a certain amount of detergent, after about 15 minutes of ordinary washing, add softener to the clear water to make the fabric more Soft, comfortable, visually more natural and cleaner.
Stone washing / stone grinding (STONE WASH)
Stone washing is to add a certain size of pumice to the washing water, so that the pumice and clothes are polished, and the water level in the polishing tank is carried out at a low water level where the clothes are completely soaked, so that the pumice can be in good contact with the clothes. Yellowstone, white stone, AAA stone, artificial stone, rubber ball, etc. can be used for washing to achieve different washing effects. After washing, the cloth surface will appear gray and old, and the clothes will be slightly to severely damaged.
Enzyme Wash (ENZYME WASH)
Enzyme is a kind of cellulase, which can degrade the fiber structure at a certain pH value and temperature, so that the cloth surface can fade mildly and hair (produce “”peach skin”” effect), and obtain long-lasting softness Effect. Stones can be used together or instead of stones. If used together with stones, it is usually called Enzyme Stone Wash (ENZYME STONE WASH).
Sand washing (SAND WASH)
Use more alkaline and oxidative additives for sand washing, so that the clothes will have a certain fading effect and old feeling after washing. If it is equipped with a stone mill, a layer of soft and creamy white fluff will be produced on the surface of the cloth after washing, and then add some softener. It can make the fabric soft and soft after washing, thus improving the comfort of wearing.
Ring spun denim
Ring spun yarn is a kind of cotton yarn, which is divided into air spinning (oe) and ring spinning (r). Ring spinning has improved the disadvantages of short spinning length, low production efficiency, and many knots of coarse-count yarn. The hand feeling and drape of ring-spun denim are better than air-jet yarn, and after washing, there will be bamboo knots. Shaped style, so that it has a stronger momentum of development.
Warp and weft slub denim
A yarn of the same thickness from top to bottom is called smooth yarn, and regular thick and thin we call it slub yarn, which can be divided into long and short slubs, and some denim also looks like bamboo on the surface. Knots, but thick and fine yarn. In addition, the cloth woven by ring spinning will also look like bamboo.
Ultra Indigo Dyed Denim
In the past, the indigo washing intentionally made the indigo dye penetrate the fiber core very shallowly, so that when the denim clothing is washed and processed, the extremely thin layer of dye on the surface of the yarn is rubbed off, exposing more white yarn core, making the color It fades quickly, so as to achieve the effect of fading immediately after a short period of scrubbing. Contrary to the indigo washing process in the past, it is required that the degree of penetration of the dyestuff is particularly good, so that the denim garment can obtain a deep and bright color after grinding.
Chromatic denim
The so-called chromatic denim is based on ordinary fabrics, after desizing and washing, and dyeing with reactive dyes again. Since the original warp yarn is blue, and the weft yarn is white without dyeing, the effect produced between the warp and weft yarns after re-dying is different, so there will be a special double-color effect. After this process is made into garments, there are more color registrations, and less color registration is done on fabrics. Because the secondary process is more cumbersome, the cost is also higher.
Assorted denim
Assorted-color denim is because there is only one blue color in the indigo dye spectrum for dyeing denim. Therefore, in order to obtain other colors other than blue, other dyes must be used for dyeing. It is usually dyed with reactive sulfur vat dyes, so it is called even-colored denim, also called colored denim.
